Delicious Italy

Venice Guides

Who should take you on a guided tour of Venice, or any other Italian art city for that matter?

We firmly believe it should be qualified and official guides.

All such guides in Italy have passed tough regional examinations based on a deep knowledge and study of art, history and technical aspects and know their home cities better than anyone.

It is not difficult to discover who the official guides are as lists are easily available from national and local Italian professional guide associations, as well as the local tourism boards.

So who do we recommend in Venice? Start with Walks inside Venice & A Guide in Venice.

Journey in the Songlines of Italy

Delicious Italy attended a book presentation at the Archaeological and Art History Library, of the Ministero per i Beni e le Attività Culturali here in central Rome. 

It was an interactive  introduction to the book 'Carmen Via -  Journey in the Songlines of Italy'  by Bernard Anson Silj.

And also a point of departure for 'Pariaeza', a project which unites cultural tourism and environmental protection.

The aim of both is to stimulate our imagination, to recapture a language and sense of place and time in danger of being lost, but which was very much alive at the time of our ancestors.

Through music, song and verse we can look again at our past, present and future and approach a fast changing world with more perspective and direction.

Anyone with a minimum of sensitivity and interest in culture and history can  certainly feel a certain something when visiting the many historical locations across the Italian regions.

Carmen Via proposes the Grotto of Tiberius in Sperlonga, the Abbey of San Pietro in Valle in Umbria and the Etruscan settlements across Tuscany. But there are many more.

A journey to our past to take us to our future across the many cultures which have formed who were are and how we speak.

Of interest:

The Trinacria in Sicily
Mysterious Creatures of Lombardia
The Liguri

Ravenna, but only for week

As much as possible we travel as we preach, independently.

So perhaps, mid July, in the middle of a heatwave, at 4pm, on the way back from a spot of birdwatching on the River Po Delta was not the best time to arrive in Ravenna.

We first noticed that only Terni has a more confusing relationship with its historical centre, ie hiding it behind avenues and avenues of (fairly inoffensive) post war construction.      

Secondly, as it was mid July and at the height of the afternoon siesta, there was no traffic around, yet you try navigating the inner ring road looking for the city ancient gates.

Not only this, we unfortunately found ourselves at the wrong end of town and had to trek the whole of the pedestrian zone to the tourist office for information about the UNESCO listed Basilicas.

As it was 40°c we asked the the helpful office where the nearest Byzantine jewel was located. Ok, another 200 meters, no sweat.

And here we arrive at the end of our lunch time Odyssey.    

To get into all but one of the Basilicas of Ravenna you have to buy a week long ticket. 

There is no formula for the casual visitor who justs wants to admire the patrimony of a single basilica for cultural and spiritual enrichment before heading on.

We could not help thinking of groups of students backpacking around Europe, or a family of 5 wanting to insert a short cultural programme for the kids,  to be told this.    

One size does not fit all as they say and maybe the city should take note of other Art Cards on offer elsewhere in Italy.

If you do want to view stunning Byzantine mosaics in Italy, then we recommend the beautiful Basilica of Santa Prassede in central Rome near the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.    

A Visit to the Marble Quarries of Carrara

Now here's an unusual travel experience. We visited the famous marble quarries of Carrara in the Apuan Alps in Tuscany.

If you wondered where Michelangelo sourced his raw material for many of his finest works, then its here.

The work is still incredibly tough and dangerous, even today.

We took a lift to the heart of the quarry and the video below will give you an idea. Bear in mind that we are at 1000 meters above sea level.

Note that the drivers' work is incredibly skilled and they stop for no one.

Travel costs

The best way to travel around Italy is by your own car, or perhaps hire car.

The country is perfect for off the beaten track routes to discover and the autostrade are pretty direct if you avoid certain times of the day, and those times of the year when everyone heads off for the 'ponte' or holidays.

But sometimes you'd be wise to take the train.

There are many incredibly low cost routes which save so much stress and road hassle, particularly exiting Rome.

For example, we recently took the Rome to Orbetello train. Cost: euros 7,21 for a 2 hour journey along the coast to one of Italy's most exclusive destinations in Tuscany. A bargain.

A further 1,20 euro for a bus to Porto Santo Stefano and then a leisurely fresh fish lunch. What a result.

Unfortunately, the hotel was 7km futher into the Monte Argentario.

And this is where they get you ... 50 euros for the taxi each way. Cute!

Drive carefully

We've travelled a good few kilometers in the last seven years of this project without too much incident.

Rather like a footballer who passes a whole season without getting a yellow card, it was with some dismay we received an official fine through the post last week.

Which should serve as a reminder to all those independent travellers out there leaving their credit card details with car hire firms.

We'd never heard of the Comune di Castagneto Carducci, but they now have 68 euros of our hard earned cash, all this for exceeding the 110 kmh speed limit by 9 kmh. That's almost 8 euros per kilometer.

A bit excessive ref, but rules is rules.

Gutted.

A Week in Truffle Country

This is a short account of our experiences on a journey to Piemonte, specifically the land due east of the regional capital Turin.

That's Asti and Alba. 

First thing you should know is that the famous white truffles of Alba may actually come from the province of Asti.

Truffles need very special and precise conditions to grow and the countryside around Alba is now almost all dedicated to vines and grape production.

Saying that you cannot miss a visit to Alba as the business of truffles, as well as the Associazione per Il Centro Nazionale Studi Tartufo' are based here.

The famous month long white truffle festival in Alba runs in October and is an international event.

Alba itself is dominated by the huge Ferrero factory. That's Tic-Tacs, Kinder and Ferrero Rocher chocolates to you and me.

more soon ...