Delicious Italy

The Past or the Future?

A recent article in the Spectator magazine chose Venice as the sacrificial lamb in a debate which everybody in Italy is only too aware of.

Stephen's Bayley's piece was entitled 'Venice is the only city on earth going backwards' and  criticized those who want to keep the lagoon city preserved by embalming.

According to many, fine modern architecture is the only solution to urban regeneration.

Splendid and inspiring buildings which lift the spirit and promote action and local creativity, helping residents take back control of their environment from mass tourism which should not be the only source of wealth generation.

Just like Venice used to be until about 1590.

It's all about embracing the future but holding onto the best of the past. Heritage is a loaded term so the words 'beni culturali' seem more appropriate.

So what plans are on the table and in the news? Two are current.

Firstly, the new tram line which may or may not pass though Florence's central Renaissance heart. The aim is to reduce CO pollution, but will the tourists be put off?   

Secondly, the huge Renzo Piano skyscraper proposed for Turin and financed by newly refinanced Intesa Sanpaolo Bank. Maybe, but ..

President Bush doesn't visit Trastevere

In the end the President didn't visit Trastevere.

Officially, the security in and around the narrow alleys and  streets was not deemed sufficient.

Unofficially, word got out that the waiting time for a table at the Dar Poeta Pizzeria every Saturday evening was going to be too long and put the visit off schedule.

President Bush visits Trastevere

This Saturday in Rome, President Bush will be making a short walking tour of the Trastevere quarter of the Eternal City.

Unfortunately, he will only have time to meet the humanitarian Association of Sant'Egidio and view the fabulous Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere in the square of the same name, one of Rome's finest piazze.

Which is a shame as Trastevere is one of Rome's most interesting zones and incredibly popular with the American and British comunity living in the city.

The President will be a little early for the July Noantri Festival,  but he might be tempted to make any number of unscheduled detours.

He can't fail to miss the many pizza restaurants in Trastevere, and can always return for the always busy Dar Poeta.

The Gianicolo boasts the best panoramic view of Rome, not necessarily by the Spanish Ambassador's residence (as viewed in the film Roman Holiday) or from the Statue of Garibaldi, but by the Finnish Embassy where the midday gun is fired. 

Viale Trastevere has one of Rome's finest 'gelateria' as well Frantoni, offering full quick lunches.

But he won't be able to see a movie at the once mythical Pasquino Cinema. Its days were numbered when the owners had the bright idea of turning it, in our view, into the world's smallest and most dismal multiplex.

The roof which opened to the stars and the 1930's style ticket entrance disappeared and so did the faithful.