Ravenna, but only for week

As much as possible we travel as we preach, independently.

So perhaps, mid July, in the middle of a heatwave, at 4pm, on the way back from a spot of birdwatching on the River Po Delta was not the best time to arrive in Ravenna.

We first noticed that only Terni has a more confusing relationship with its historical centre, ie hiding it behind avenues and avenues of (fairly inoffensive) post war construction.      

Secondly, as it was mid July and at the height of the afternoon siesta, there was no traffic around, yet you try navigating the inner ring road looking for the city ancient gates.

Not only this, we unfortunately found ourselves at the wrong end of town and had to trek the whole of the pedestrian zone to the tourist office for information about the UNESCO listed Basilicas.

As it was 40°c we asked the the helpful office where the nearest Byzantine jewel was located. Ok, another 200 meters, no sweat.

And here we arrive at the end of our lunch time Odyssey.    

To get into all but one of the Basilicas of Ravenna you have to buy a week long ticket. 

There is no formula for the casual visitor who justs wants to admire the patrimony of a single basilica for cultural and spiritual enrichment before heading on.

We could not help thinking of groups of students backpacking around Europe, or a family of 5 wanting to insert a short cultural programme for the kids,  to be told this.    

One size does not fit all as they say and maybe the city should take note of other Art Cards on offer elsewhere in Italy.

If you do want to view stunning Byzantine mosaics in Italy, then we recommend the beautiful Basilica of Santa Prassede in central Rome near the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.